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There are some who would agree with you on the packing grease, but, some experts in the field would suggest removing it as I do. Obvoiusly, the choice is up to you. As far as cogs and chainrings lasting forever, if you've been around a while and have ridden a good number of years or worked in a bike shop, you'd see that cogs and chainrings do wear over time. If you keep your chain clean and lubricated, the chainrings and cogs will last (not forever) but years. Regards, Tony

Good point. I wipe my chain down with a microfiber cloth or use a blower (on cool) to dry it out. Thanks for your comment. Regards, Tony

Wax is a great protective coating for chains, especially in wet damp climate areas. A takes little more effort if you soak your chain in melted wax and a little less effort if you appy a liquid wax directly. If you ride in mostly dry conditions, a lubricate such as Finish Line Dry may be all you need. It's a personal choice. Thanks for your comment, Tony

The manufacturers comments are misleading. Maybe they think that if they suggest the extra step of removing the packing grease, they won't sell their chain or get some bad press. But that's just a guess on my part.

See our video on Quick 2-minute Drivetrain cleanup: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html With a lot of grime/dirt build up, I occasionally remove the chain, use Simple Green and an old tooth brush to scrub, wash with soap and water, rinse and dry thoroughly. If you remove the chain, be sure to use a re-usable master link or replace a single use master link. Most of the time the 2-minute drivetrain cleanup is enough.

Everyone has there favorites and alot depends on the conditions you ride in. Since I ride in mostly dry condition, I use Finish Line Dry Lubricant. But the choices of good lubricants are many, so ask around and try different ones until you find one that suit you. Thanks for asking and safe cycling, Tony

Thanks Tony, love your channel.

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Yes, that's the way we used to shorten or remove/install chains in the old days. But remember, everytime you do this, you weaken the pin you've pushed out and back in again. Now we have re-usable master links that do a better job, povided you use them correctly.

Less then 10 minutes (scub using an old tooth brush, then rinse, wash with soap and water, rinse and wipe dry). This is from tests we performed on segments of various chains in a variety of degreasers and solvents. Good question. Thanks for asking. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Are you interested in mechanical actived disc brakes (which come standard) with Triban or hydraulic disc brakes. Mechanical disc brakes have the advantage of not worrying about brake fluid leakage, air in the brake lines, or bleeding the brakes. The advantage to full hydraulic is the stopping power. I, myself, switch out the brake system for "mechanically accentuated hydraulic" that have the best of both worlds.

@@tony10speed yes but stopping power not great 😂 I have that bike and wondering about new brake pads

@@jkspcoy Are the brakes rim brakes, mechanical disc brakes or hydraulic disc brakes?

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You are correct. I was applying the lubricant drop by drop on each roller but sped up the video to save time. Thanks for pointing that out. Regards, Tony

@@tony10speed Could you not lube the chain faster that way and wipe it with a cloth after?

@@thenewone2573 You could, but the best way to conserve lubricant and keep spillage from getting to messy is drop by drop on each roller once around. Then back pedal about 15-20 times to work the lubricant into the rollers/pins/bushings. Let it sit (depending on how much time you have) and then wipe off the excess.

Your welcome. Our cat, Hermione (she has red on her head like the heroine of Harry Potter fame) supervises my work - she lets me know when it's time for her dinner. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Good point. Thanks for the comment. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

We are showing you what you must do to acheive an adequate distance between the pulley wheel and largest cog. Our needs, as stated in the video, required us to turn the "b" screw all the way in to achieve the 2-4mm between the pulley wheel and cassette cog.

You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Ist Cav, Medevac assigned to Darnel Army Hospital ER, Fort Hood, during Vietnam. We had over 100,000 soldiers & dependents and was the largest US base at that time.

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Kmc is an excellent chain. I, myself, use a Shimano Hyperglide Chain inwhich the plates of the chain links are specially beveled to allow clean shifting with a Hyperglide cassette. But again, that's a personal choice.

We tried homemade degreasers, suggested by our viewers, which did not seem effective as you point out. WD-40 is a water displacement liquid with cleaning properties and contains a very small amount of lubricant (which quickly wear off if used for that purpose). I, myself, think there are better alternatives on the market. We do not advocate kerosene for the following reasons: 1. Toxic fumes which may present a health hazard to the user. 2. Must be kept in special designated EPA containers and should be stored outside. 3. Environmentally hazardous (both the liquid and fumes). Wastes cannot be dumped down the drain or allowed to evaporate but rather handled as hazardous waste. The same can be said for gasoline and a number of other petroleum products. I point these out so you can continue to enjoy cycling, maintain a healthy state and a healthy enviroment. Regards, Tony Marchand, M.D.

If it's a thru axle you'll need to carry an allen wrench of the correct size. If the wheel is bolted on, you'll need to carry a "stubby" combination wrench ($7 or less at your local hardware store or on Amazon) in your saddle bag. To remove the nut which may be stuck on, place the wrench at horizontal to the ground and use your heel for leverage (comes off counter clockwise). Watch out if the wrench slips that it doesn't fly off and hit you foot or leg. I don't know of any othe "magic" way to remove a bolted axle. Good question and thanks for your comment, Tony

Here are some tricks I've used. Some may work, other not. But sometimes the results are surprisingly good. 1. Some times you can spay with clothing stain remover (such as that from OxyClean) and let sit overnight. With some deep stains, you may want to leave the clothing out and spay it with stain remover daily without washing for several days. Then, when you put it in the wash, put the clothing with the stain showing on top and pour in your detergent. 2. If it's grease, spay with a little WD-40 and let soak in a few minutes. Sprinkle with Baking Soda and try blotting away the grease. Rinse under cold water. Repeat several times before washing or scrubing. 3. Use Dawn dish washing liquid and scrub with finger nail brush. Rinse and repeat. Only problem here is that working with delicate clothing such as a cycling jersey may leave some marks from the brush (although that may be better then the stain). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Turn it until the pin is about half way out compared to the with between the chain links. Give it a try and see it it snaps out (probably won't on first attempt). Insert the chain breaker and move it out a few more mm. Try again to get it to snap apart. Repeat just going a few mm at a time. I know this takes time, but if you go to far, the chain will come appart and can't be snapped back together. Patience is your best allie.

Which of the tricks worked for you?

Equiping the bike with a chainring that sits on the inside (frame side) of the crank will bring the chainring iwardward. In other cases, using a narrower bottom bracket may be the answer, depending on the thickness of the crank end that holds the crank bolt. There's no clear answer and the video is just a caution that some cases just don't work or make noise in the larger cogs when making the conversion.

@@tony10speed Alright, thanks!

We demonstrate several ways to remove the lockring in the following video (continue watching to the end): ua-cam.com/video/RyX00hPyB34/v-deo.html If that fails, you might try the following: ua-cam.com/video/RWed_dFlQhg/v-deo.html Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

Depends on the patch used. Many of the "pre-glued" (sometimes called "glueless" since you don't need a separate tube of glue) will leak after a few months. Those with separate glue such as those by Park or Slime may last several years. In the latter case, it also depends on the skill and technique used by the cyclist who is using the patch kit. I speak from many years of experience.

You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

The 1x conversion problems occur on some bikes and not others. The video is a "cautionary" tale some one is aware of problems that possibly can occur. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony

Which method worked best for you?

@@tony10speedI sprayed some penetrant overnight, then used your first method - pushed the spanner with my heel. It took a little bit to line everything up but once that was done it was pretty straightforward.

@@elliott212 Thanks for the info. It will be helpful to our views. Regards, Tony

You're Welcome. If you are not in a hurry, it's even better to apply the lubricant drop by drop on each roller once around. More time consuming but saves lubricant with little mess. Then turn the crank backward about 20 times around to work the lube into the chain. Let it sit (depending on how much time you have - for me, an hour or more usual - overnight) and then wipe off the excess. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Did you clean the handlebar clamp and apply Fibro Grip before tightening? Did you check the headset for knocking or creaking? See: ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html Also check the quick release or thru axle. See: ua-cam.com/video/XQCrqDXwycA/v-deo.html Finally, it could be the headset bearings and you may need to overhaul the headset (or have you local bike store take a look) if other sources of creaking / clunking are ruled out. Remember that noise can be transmitted thru the frame making it difficult to pin point. Good luck and let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

Thank you. Start with maintenance and easy repairs. When in doubt, consult your local bike store. I learned alot early on by watching the mechanics work on my bike and went from there. It takes time and patience. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

We checked the chainline and it was in the center of the cassette. We decided, anyway, to move the chainline in about 2 mm from a 107 to a 105 mm BB but the noise was still present. You had a good idea but we suspected the same thing. Thanks for the comment, Tony

That would certainly work. The idea of a 1x is that you can put a much larger cog on the back. Here, I went from a 11/34 to an 11/40 cog in the back and a small chain ring of 34 on my double to a 32 1x in the front. This allows a cyclist to climb any steep gradient with the lowest gears being 32 in the front and 40 in the back (as opposed to a 34 - 34).

The rim tape on a clincher should at least go from one inner wall to the next (need not go up the inner wall on each side as it must with tubeless tires). In your case, the tape should sufficiently cover all holes of the spoke nipples and extend a few mm up the rim sides. You can use Velox tape or 2 layers of tubeless tape. Let me know if you have further questions. Regards, Tony

Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

@@tony10speed It worked perfectly! I actually ended up using 3 levers, it was that tight. I only wished I had watched your video on how to get the tire back on beforehand, because that was 3x more difficult! 🤣 I got everything in working condition in the end, thanks again. 👍

@@johnjordan6032 You're Welcome. You are becoming an expert! Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony

There are over 100 grades of stainless steel with 304 and 316 being the most common due to their strength and durability. These latter two are, for the most parts non-magnetic. However, forging (that is molding, working and bending) of the steel may disrupt the molecular properties of the steel, imparting some magnetic effects. Other grades of steel may show more magnetism. This is probably why various stainless steel wheel spokes vary from non-magnetic to moderately magnetic. Good question. Thanks, Tony